1. Bonding skills of adhesive lining: in modern garment technology, adhesive lining has become a common lining material for high, medium and low-grade clothing due to its simple use and complete functions. Although its use method is simple, but if it is not used properly, it will also affect the effect of clothing. Therefore, it is necessary to know how to use it.

 

There are two methods of fusing the fusible interlining: manual fusing and machine fusing. Machine bonding can be divided into rolling bonding and flat pressing bonding.

 

In contrast, the effect of machine bonding is better than that of manual bonding. However, if using the rolling type adhesive machine, the fabric and the adhesive lining are easy to misplace, so Zui is easy to use manual assistance. The method is to carry out artificial bonding by hand first. During false bonding, the temperature of the iron shall be lower than 100 ℃, the iron shall be pressed lightly, and the time for staying in the same part shall be short, which shall be subject to the pull down of the adhesive lining, and then it shall be sent to the machine for bonding.

 

2. Technology of lining by hand or machine

 

(1) The thickness and texture of the adhesive lining shall be consistent with the thickness and texture of the fabric. The high-grade garment technology needs the process of drawing back, so the spinning lining with good elasticity and high viscosity should be used.

 

(2) The color of the fusible interlining should be consistent with that of the fabric as far as possible. If there is no such possibility, the light color fabric can not be matched with the dark lining, and the opaque dark color fabric can be matched with the light color lining.

 

(3) For the part of the fabric that has not been pre shrunk by high temperature and needs to be glued, a margin shall be left around the cutting to prevent the fabric from being shrunk by high temperature gluing.

 

(4) When the fusible interlining is cut, it usually uses the same yarn direction as the garment piece. However, because the high-grade clothing needs to be pushed, returned, drawn and ironed, the 45 ° diagonal yarn is the best choice for cutting the fusible interlining used in the high-grade technology. Because 45 ° inclined yarn has good elasticity and a certain degree of stretch, it is easy to be drawn back.

 

(5) When cutting the fusible interlining, in order to avoid the fusible interlining sticking to the iron or the fusing machine, the four sides of the cut interlining should be 0.2 ~ 0.3cm smaller than the four sides of the fabric.

 

(6) Before bonding, the adhesive lining shall be softened by hand and then be bonded. In case of false bonding or manual bonding, the garment pieces shall be leveled on the chopping board first, and then the adhesive lining shall be placed on the garment pieces to make the garment pieces under and on.

 

(7) If it is operated by hand, the temperature of the iron should be controlled between 130 ~ 160 ℃ during operation, so as not to cause the degumming of the adhesive lining and the foaming of the clothing piece. If the temperature is too low, the iron will not stick firmly.

 

(8) When the machine is glued, the suitable temperature of the fabric or the fusible interlining shall be determined before gluing, so as to avoid the phenomenon of scorching, shrinking or degumming of the fabric. Machine bonding cannot be repeated for the same part to avoid degumming.

 

(9) When carrying out manual or false bonding, it is better to carry out spot strengthening welding for parts with large bonding area (such as front garment piece), and start bonding from the middle, and then gradually spread the bonding around.

 

(10) In case of manual or false bonding, the worktable plate shall be flat and free of unevenness. When bonding by hand, it is better to prepare a cold iron first, and cool and finalize the bonded part in time. The glued garment pieces must be laid flat, and the next process can be carried out after cooling to prevent the deformation of garment pieces.